This is tricky because the heat gun doesn't have a wide spread, so you've got to keep turning the piece over and trying to get it all heated up evenly. It will warp and buckle as the front and backside expand at different rates, but once it's all hot, the piece will lay flat and it will be pretty floppy and soft. This is 1/8" pvc board. Thicker pieces would be harder to manage, I think. A lot of the Boba Fett and Jango Fett guys use this same technique to make armor pieces for their costumes. Once it's evenly heated up, then I quickly wrapped it around a piece of PVC pipe that's 2.85" O.D. or so.
I pulled the edges down around the pipe and let it cool off. The resulting piece has a nice even curve to it and it's 3 3/16" in diameter on the outside, which is exactly what I want.
The official size of the battery boxes is 3" wide. I want to go a little bit bigger than that to make the fit over the NPC motors easy, but not so big that it is noticeable. This should be just right. So with some cuts and cleaning up, I got these:
I cut a the side wall pieces and did some gluing and got these:
I should be able finish these up in a few days. Rather than tear my old hoses out of my original battery boxes and the knurled hose fittings, I order some new fittings from a guy on Ebay, and some hoses from Mike Velcheck. Both very cheap. That way I'll have another complete set of battery boxes for later.
I also worked on the drive system to tune it up today. I found the spec sheet on the Sabertooth 2 x 25 speed controller here at Dimension Engineering. And I set the dip switches for a linear throttle after following their guidelines. That seems to have smoothed out and improved the performance of my motors.
Then I took another look at the front foot shell wheels. I've always thought that having two caster wheels in there would be better. They would distribute the weight and keep the caster from crabbing if the shell gets out of level. And I want to make the ride as even and smooth as possible. I had two caster wheels that I picked up in the hardware store near Mike Senna's house from R2LA. But there's not enough room in there for both of them to swing freely all the way around. They intersect this much with the top one in the down position and the bottom one in the up position:
Now I've always assumed that this kind of configuration would be a no go. I assumed that if the two wheel intersected, then when you drive it around and made a turn, you could have them bind up on each other, or one would interfere with the turning of the other and they'd start sliding sideways. But I thought I'd just give it a try to see what happened since it was just a matter of screwing a few screws in to test. Much to my surprise, they worked fine. I ran the R2 forward and back, side to side, and tried everything I could to get them to bind up or interfere and there was no problem at all. First, whenever you change direction, both casters tend to pivot in unison immediately. You never seem to have one going one direction with the other turning the other way. Second, if they are colliding, they seem to be aligning and straightening out from it so fast it's not detectable. So I'm all set with a double wheel in front now.
I also took out some of the spacers that the wheels attach to--I think about 3/8". This had and interesting effect. First it lowered the front end a bit and helped to hide the front wheels, so that's good. But it looks like the drive motor shells in the back legs are a bit out of level--the front wheel is engaged and the rear wheel is engaged and touching, but not as heavily. This unweighting a bit of the rear wheel made the skittering problem stop in tight turns. But the wheels are still engaged and when they need to dig in, they do. Combine that improvement with the dip switch change on the speed controller and the handling now is just great. It's exactly what I wanted. He's responsive and smooth with lots of torque. So I'm psyched about the drive system.